Spring Coat - Progress Report 3

I have been working on Vogue 8884 and blogging about my progress and tailoring steps.  Check out Progress Report 1 and Progress Report 2 if you have missed these.

It starts with the roll line, I used some stiffer fusible interfacing for this step.

I carefully pinned the back seam and stitched it into place, thanks to my walking foot it matches nicely.

The back is complete, so it was time to add the back stay.  I used the completed back piece for my pattern guide, since this garment has a back yoke.  According to the Tailoring book, I drew a line 8" down the center neckline then curved it to 3" below the underarm.  I used muslin for the back stay.

Following The Classice Guide To Sewing the Perfect Jacket Tailoring  I cut seam tape the length of the front section and stitched in the middle.

Shoulder seams, check!  Now time for the side seams, which have the inset side pockets.

After trying on the jacket, I felt like the side seams were a bit too far to the back, it felt awkward using the pockets.  I took out the back seam and stitched it at a scant 3/8", that gave a bit more to the side seams and it felt much better.

I also made one more change (no pictures), the length.  Meredith and I decided the longer length looked a bit overwhelming with all the pattern and it just didn't look right.  I cut it off to the View A length, I think a better look for me and for this fabric

Source - Vogue Patterns

So far so good, now collar time.  This pattern does have a separate under collar pattern cut on the bias.  Nice feature and helps the collar shape nicely.

Here is the collar attached, I love how it matches with the jacket, I think a happy accident for me.  I matched the center back seam and all the rest fell into place. Gotta love that.

Last for this post is the sleeve seam, this Vogue pattern has a 2-piece sleeve, this section is eased then edgestitched and topstitched.

I am so enjoying this process, it is actually a good thing my serger broke and had to go to the shop.  If it wasn't for that, I would have kept putting off this jacket, so the silver lining is a fabulous new jacket in a few days.  The temps might be too hot to wear it but it will be hanging in my closet ready and waiting.