Vogue 9037 in Wool Flannel

Vogue 9037 is a beautiful jacket with a statement collar and nice waist defining tucks, this pattern pulled me right in and I had the perfect aubergine wool flannel from Mood for this garment.  I was drawn to the color of this wool on the Mood website and just look at all this aubergine inspiration from Pinterest.  This fabric has a bit of a brown cast to the aubergine, which is probably indicated by the "antique" in the name.

This jacket is unlined but I wanted to add a lining due to the wool and also for ease of putting on the jacket.  One thing into the consideration were the tucks.  I wanted the lining to be part of the tucks, so I went with flat lining as I did with this Rigel bomber jacket.  I don't really have a defined waist and I thought this would help with the bulk.

I was very pleased with this decision and it went together nicely.  My intention was to make the longer length of this jacket but after doing a muslin, I felt it was just too long and overwhelming. I did add 1" to the length of the shorter view and I am so happy I did.  I isn't any too long!  

I added 1" to the sleeves also and they could be just a touch longer. The one inch is my standard addition on all BMV patterns.  

Let's talk interfacing.  I just used it on the collar and front facings.  The drape and hand of the wool flannel was wonderful and I did not want to change that at all. The look of this jacket and the pleats called for a softer woven with some structure but not too much.

I took a bit off the under collar for the turn of the cloth but with the thicker wool flannel I could of taken a tiny bit more.   I did make a belt from the wool flannel and will wear it occasionally with the jacket but felt the wool belt just added thickness.  The skinny black belt adds more definition and breaks up the aubergine.  One thing I did do is interface the belt with a tricot fusible interfacing.  I thought after many knots and bows the wool flannel would lose some of its body.

 This picture is one of the first ones I took, it shows the jacket nicely but the wind was just too cold and strong.  I had to move to the side of the house for the rest of the pictures and to have protection from the wind.  I did love having the wool flannel on during the photo shoot, it added great warmth. This is a true jacket, not a coat.  The sleeves are slim and I do not think  a blouse would be comfortable under this Vogue jacket.  I  am wearing it with a shell for the photos and think a long sleeve knit shirt would be fine.  If you love this pattern and it is a gorgeous one realize there might be some changes needed if you want a winter type coat from this pattern.

I have some fullness in the back but I think it is all the tucks that add the volume to the upper back.  the jacket is comfortable and the ease of  movement is good.  Also, my shoulders fit nicely.

Now let's talk lining, which came from Joann's, it is one of their silky fabrics and perfect for the lining.  I placed the wrong sides together of the wool and lining then basted the edges.  After the basting I treated the two fabrics as one.  I used a Hong Kong finish for the seams and hems with bias binding, also from Joann's.  One thing for sure I underestimated the number of packages I would use.  I initially purchased two but had needed three more.  

All of the seams were pressed open and then the binding applied.  There is one exception to this.  I treated the armscye seam as one, since it was pressed toward the sleeve.  

 To keep the bound seams showing through while pressing, I used a seam stick and a press cloth.  The seam stick really made an amazing difference.

In this photo, you can see how the tucks were formed and the binding for the hems.

The final detail was a snap closure.  I had some nice mid-size black ones, that were perfect for this.

I am so happy with this jacket, it is a different look for me but I do like it and the collar on this jacket is so dramatic, it really makes a statement..  I was just finishing with the pictures, when hubby came home, he really loved the jacket and said it looks very nice.  So that is good.  The wool flannel was amazing to sew and really is the perfect weight.