Sew Over It - Joan Dress

Have you seen the new Sew Over It pattern called the Joan Dress?  It is such a fun retro style based on the wardrobe of Mad Men's iconic Joan Holloway. I was drawn to the lines of this dress right away, such a classic look.

Only one problem, I really didn't know if I would wear a dress in this style much.  I did know I would wear a top based on this pattern

I was contemplating this pattern and deciding if I wanted to buy it when I received an email from Deepika at Pattern Review.  She so kindly offered this digital pdf pattern to me if I would like to try it and blog about it.  I told her I would like that but would probably make it as a top.  She replied however I wanted to make it would be great.  That sealed my decision, the Joan Dress would be the Joan Top for me.   The Sew Over It Joan Dress at Pattern Review is one of so many sewing patterns available at Pattern Review.

Let's talk sizing, it is pretty true to what I find in the Big 4 patterns and I went with a 12.   To change this dress pattern to a top, I just combined the bodice and the skirt.  Drawing a straight line parallel to the grainline on each piece.  This was the lines I used to tape the two pattern pieces together. I added a bit to the side seam at this new intersection line, creating a gentle curve.  After I had the top completed, I just pinned in the darts (in the front and back) for my desired fit.  I went with a semi-fitted top.  I am not sure this is the correct way to make the changes but it is what worked for me.

I used a ponte knit from Joann's Fabrics, which this is a very nice fabric.  The collar is a darker gray knit, which I stabilized with a knit interfacing.  I am thrilled with the matching of the back invisible zipper but it took about 3 times to match it.  The back collar is my only disappointment with my sewing, the two back collar points are a bit off.  

My thought was a tunic length but I didn't quite add enough length.  For the pictures for the blog post, I went with black leggings but in reality I will wear this with skinny jeans. 

In this picture, you can see the gentle curve of the front darts.  Don't you love these long darts in a pattern?  It really allows for the fit you want from very fitted to no darts at all. 

Take a look at the collar, it is such a nice looking collar.  The pattern calls for it on the bias, which would of worked better but I only had 1/4 yard of the dark gray knit.  The collar was cut with the stretch to help with the curve.  The pattern calls for a lining and that is how the neckline is finished.  I did not see the need for a lining with my ponte knit.  After stitching on the collar, I serged the neckline to finish the seam and turned the raw edge under.  Lifting the collar, I stitched 1/4" from the neckline to hold the finished edge in place. A bit of handstitching held the finished edge in place by the zipper.

I have been really thinking about how to get rid of that fold at my armholes, after seeing the same fold in pictures for this Joan Dress.  I don't notice when I have my arms to my side and the top pulled down but after any movement, the wrinkle appears.  I think I might try dropping the armhole just slightly 1/4 to 1/2" and see if that helps with the pull of the fabric.  I noticed this was one of Froggie Girl's alterations on her Pattern Review of the Joan Dress

One thing that has improved on my plaid/stripe skills, is the matching of the sleeves to the bodice.  It is all thanks to Grainline Studio's tutorial.
You can see this in the following  picture.  I cropped it so you could see the one arm holding straight done the body.  If you haven't taken a look at this tutorial, please do, it is extremely helpful 

This Sew Over It Joann Dress pattern has very thorough instructions with clear graphics.  Sew Over it also has a sew along for the Joan Dress for additional instruction and photos.
Disclosure - I was given this pattern by Deepika at Pattern Review to make the dress and blog my results.  The opinions and changes are mine own.