Burda Style Pleated Pocket Blouse

My new blouse and one that I feel is the perfect mix of pattern, fabric and Pinterest inspiration.

Let's go through the list: 1.  Pattern - Burda Style Blouse 10/2012 #102 2.  The fabric -Indiesew.com rayon challis (amazing)  You can see the original fabric in this blog post but sorry sold out Here is a rayon challis that is available 3.  This pleated pocket blouse and jeans picture from Pinterest

Let's talk some construction details, I went with a size 40 on this blouse, measurments  indicated maybe a 42 for the bust but the blouse looked oversized so I went with the 40.  I could have probably went to a 38 but I am great with the finished product.  So if you make this remember to go down at least a size.
The pockets are pleated and only one pleat down the middle, facing toward center front.  I did stitch  the pleat down at the top of the pocket for about one inch, which is the amount of the pocket facing..  The challis is very drapey and the pocket wanted to pull down at the pleat.

One more thing about the above photo, I did my most agonizing over horizontal (as per pattern) or vertical (as my usual blouse pattern).  I did some searching on the internet and found most verticals are due to the placket on a shirt. Another factor for vertical buttonholes, it is easier to line up the button, there is a bit of play in the placement.  On a horizontal buttonhole, the placement of the button has to be more exact.  I found that to be true.

When placing the pockets, I do lots of measuring and more measuring to get the pockets in the right place on each front.  Meaning at the same spot across the front!

The sleeves on this blouse are long, I did add an extra inch to the sleeves and I am not sure I really needed it.  The extra length does give the sleeves some fullness and drama, which I like with the drapey fabric.  The cuffs on this blouse are on the small size - 1-1/4"  wide, a nice feature for a style which I feel is on the dressier side.

I did not have enough rayon fabric for the under collar and the yoke facing so I went to my stash.  Nothing suitable there, so I went to my closet and found a black tank from a rayon.  I am trying to eliminate solid black garments from my closet, they just do nothing for my coloring (not to mention the dark circles are more pronounce).  This tank cost me $9 retail, so it was a perfect candidate for these facings.    A blurry photo but you get the idea.

The back of this blouse has a very big pleat, another thing you could make a bit smaller for a less full blouse.

I haven't sewn a Burda pattern in quite some time but did like printing off the PDF.  In comparison this was so much easier than tracing all the lines in the Burda Magazine.  The brief and concise instructions were actually very easy to follow and I had no difficulties.  One thing that helps if you have problems with the instructions, just pull out your favorite similar pattern and use those instructions.

Here is the photo from Pinterest that inspired me

My inspired look:

Let's talk about the fullness in the blouse because it is full and I think it all is due to the deep tuck in the back.  Some photographs were taken with the blouse left out and my black ponte pants

And you can see the collar turned up here, oops didn't get it back down after the above photo. This is a nice look and one I might wear but I really prefer the other look.

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