McCall's 7818 - Green and White Seersucker

 The new trend in jackets is the oversized blazer and I couldn't wait for fall to make one!  My blazer will be perfect for the end of summer and I picked Mood Fabrics' Green Candy Striped Seersucker.  This fabric comes in several different colors and I loved working with this seersucker.

  My pattern for this oversized style is McCall's 7818 and it was great make with excellent instructions by Melissa Watson's.  I went with a size Medium.  The hardest part is right at the beginning, the two front welt pockets with the pocket flaps.  I went step by step but I did have to do some unsewing.  I went with straight grain for the welts but with this small stripe it was hard to keep my stripes straight.  Here is the inside of the pocket and you can see how it isn't the straightest

 I had the welts done on one pocket and I just didn't like the look at all.  So I took out the top welt, cut some bias and tried again.  Much better   I did have to make my pocket flaps larger than the pattern piece, the welt was bigger than the pocket flap.  I did not have enough fabric left, so part of the pocket bag was used for the flap.  After both of these welts were finished, one more was left, upper welt.

 Once these three pockets were completed, the construction went a bit faster.  Here is the inside of my jacket and the back of the jacket
 
 This was also the first time I did handstitch my sleeves in as per the instructions

 I wanted to add something special for the inside and used my embroidery machine and software to make a monogram

Here is the software and how it looked on the screen for the Premier + 2 Embroidery Ultra.  There are so many options for font choices, layout and border.

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I did find out you don't use no-show mesh for a stabilizer in garments.  That stuff shrinks!  I finished my monogram and I like to use the steam on my iron to set seams and for my garments. Well, I added some steam and my poor monogram shrunk before my eyes, for a wrinkled mess!  I did have some extra lining fabric and cut the back again and did my monogram again.

  Here is the inside of the jacket

    The back vents

 

 The instructions are excellent for the notch collar and this is the best results I have ever had.  I put in the buttonhole on the lapel but I did not cut it open.  I never realized you sew the notch at a convex curve and that helps make the notch perfect.

Here is a great notched collar tutorial and here is the tip from the pattern.  I couldn't find anything similar on the internet

from McCall's 7818 instruction sheet

 

 And then a view of the back vents and buttons on the sleeves.  This was the only issue I had with the pattern, the lining is all put in and then the instructions state to sew in the buttonholes.  Now note the buttonholes are decorative only, so I just stitched on the buttons.

 


I hadn't sewn seersucker before but it stitched and pressed beautifully and I loved working with it.

  The jacket is fall release  and  recommended fabrics are  wool blends, wool crepe, crepe and sateen and all the links are to those type fabrics at Mood Fabrics.  I just love the look of the seersucker and with my graphic tee.

  I did have several hours in the construction of this jacket and I feel like it was a great make to learn new techniques.  I tried to take my time, use hand stitching when needed and really read pattern instructions!  Melissa has quick tips, pro tips and fit tips all throughout the pattern.  Do make sure you read all of these, it will make the finished garment even better!

    I did add one inch to the sleeves but I did not need to add any length at all, so my sleeves are a bit long but I don't mind, they are fun to have the longer length.  Also, fun to cuff the sleeves

  I did a bit of photo overload but there is lots going on with this jacket and I also love this so much!

  If you wanted to speed the construction up, the welts would be an option.  The pocket flaps could be stitched on for just the pocket looks.  Also, the upper welt could just have the flap stitched on, or eliminate this step.

    If you want a great pattern that is on-trend try this one and use a great Mood Fabrics' wool.

  In Missouri we have warm days and start to have cool nights - this jacket will be perfect for the end of summer and first of fall.

Now to my t-shirt, I thought it would be fun to get a graphic tee with my blog name.  So to Etsy I went and bought from this seller and this shirt .  The title says flowy and it is, I went with a Medium but wish I purchased a small, I will alter it to a smaller size.